The icky, gross, and sometimes fun in the name of research

WARNING: Today’s blog is a gross for some readers, but some pictures are also fun. Please proceed with caution. I would like to thank my husband Keith for inspiring this entry. He suggested that I needed to write about some of the things that are forthcoming and I decided that today’s entry would be about the gross and icky things you encounter in the Tanzania and similar countries and some of the “fun” experiences you have to pursue you research and your work.

I was inspired by the book, That’s Gross!: Icky Facts That Will Test Your Gross-Out Factor, by Crispin Boyer.

When in Tanzania, there are many different animals that you will encounter. Some purposely on safari, and many that you thought could have left you along.

For example, during my 2007 trip, I met this lovely tortoise on an island of the coast of Zanzibar. I was a little worried he/she might eat my hand, but they were very beautiful and fun to watch and encounter so closely.

Feeding my new friend

In Zanzibar, we also visited seaweed farms on the edge of the ocean and found this baby starfish in the water.

Our new friend, the baby starfish

On the other hand, in Lushoto in 2007, these flying cicadas invaded the school during the months of May and June. I used to have conversations with them at night in my room trying to get them not to land on my bed or my head. Luckily, this was not a normal occurrence. They exist there normally, but not at this high population every year. The children collected them and fried them for a snack. I tried one or two. They were not that tasty and certainly too small for any real fortification.

They tried to be my friends and failed.

I ate them in the name research and repertoire building with the people at the Rainbow School. I also went fishing on that trip for my research. This was not line and pole fishing. They drag the net along the bottom of the dammed pond and then pick out the fish that are big enough to eat and toss the rest back.

Getting right in the water

Before going in, you have to put Vaseline all over your exposed arms and legs to discourage the fish from biting and nibbling you. I guess they don’t want you to have a full body cleaning like the fish pedicure I have seen advertised. The water was very cold.

Greasing up before fishing

After finishing, they cleaned and scaled the fish and the children and staff ate it for lunch the next day.

Cleaning the fish

Sometimes you wish the bugs would just leave you alone. I got a Nairobi fly bite on my leg a few weeks ago. The Nairobi fly is actually a beetle that crawls into your clothing or under a watch band or ring. When you feel it you generally swat at the spot and that squishes the bug and then it emits a chemical that burns your skin and hurts and itches a lot. If you touch the chemical area while still infected, you can spread it to other parts of your body. It will eventually heal as you can see below, but you are left with a battle scar from your trip. Keith was bitten by a Nairobi fly under his wedding ring in 2008 and still has his scar.

My Nairobi fly scar

And then the preventative things sometimes get you too. This mark on my arm is from some of my vaccinations for my trip and it had never healed completely.

My vaccinations scar

Finally, this country has a lot of clay, mud and dirt, depending on if it is a dry or rainy season. Much of it is this red color seen used to build this traditional village home from a village near Lushoto.

Mud brick house in Tanzania

When I go running in the mornings, I come back covered in a layer of red dust and my white socks are not white anymore. Another side effect of all the dust is that when you blow your nose, even for routine cleaning when you don’t have a cold, your boogers are a dark red or usually look more black. You can turn an entire Kleenex black in minutes trying to rid yourself of the dust and dirt mucous boogers. In the science book for class 1, children learn that the nose is used to smell but it is also used to keep clean air coming in and out of your body and so your little hairs in your nose catch all that dust. Luckily for all of you, I don’t have a picture of my black boogers. Riding on the bus as I did on my way to Lushoto, guaranteed black boogers in the evening.

Finally, here is my daily survival kit. I carry in my bag everything except the nail brush. Of course I have cipro for stomach emergencies and neosporin for cuts and other things. But, these items are essential.

The hand sanitizer is critical for a variety of reasons but particular for cleaning your hands after using the bathroom when there is no water. The ziploc bag of napkins is your travel toilet paper for local bathrooms. The gentle face cleaning wipes work to clean the dust off your face, clean your computer screen, and work on your hands to clean them as well. The nail brush is used once or twice daily, because my nails are almost always getting dirty with dust over the course of a day, but don’t like them so short that I would bearily have a nail bed. I am glad I have never bitten my nails, because I can’t imagine what might be under there.

My survival kit

We all must do many things to become community members and support the furthering of our research and our understanding of the community and people we work with. In Tanzania, that includes eating a lot of food when you are hosted at people’s homes, including things you may not want to, like the time I ate a chicken liver. In often times means trying new experiences such as fishing in the pond with nets, but it can be fun as that was.

While many of these experiences or “opportunities” may seem uncomfortable at first or something you wouldn’t do, but I can’t tell you how happy I am that I was able to step out of my comfort zone because it made all the difference in connecting with people and building relationships with people I will have for the rest of my personal and professional life. You never know where black boogers, fried bugs, and a few scars might lead.

Lushoto… part 2

We are into the final stretch of this trip. Today is another lovely day at Kilimanjaro Union Café doing computer work related to the project and a few other things I need to do.  Therefore, today’s blog will be another entry about my trip to Lushoto.

I stayed at the Irente Farm or the Irente Biodiversity Reserve.

Locally, it is known as the Irente Farm. Anette and Peter Murless are the very kind and knowledge managers there and were wonderful hosts to me. They offer nice rooms at very reasonable rates with wonderful hot showers with tons of water pressure and the prices include a huge breakfast with German dark bread, freshly made jams and cheese, yogurt, veggies, a banana, and your choice of tea or French press coffee. They use a lot of solar power so you have lights when there is no electricity and they work very hard to protect the environment and educate guests and locals.

My yummy dinner

Interesting facts about the location

Mkindu room at the IBR

It was delicious and more food than I could eat. They will also cook a hot dinner for you either vegetarian or with meat for a small price. The picture below is my dinner from the first night, Tuesday.

On Wednesday, I met Flora (a former teacher at the Rainbow School where I did my dissertation research) for tea and then was treated to lunch at Peter and Anette’s house. For dinner, I went to Lutheran Hostel and Restaurant in town for dinner with Mama Munga, the head of SEKUMO, the special needs university where Keith taught the whole year we were in Lushoto and I taught one course. I was invited to dinner to meet some American professors and students from Kansas State who were in town to teach a learning disabilities class at the university. I almost forgot that I met Yassin, the principal of the Rainbow School in the afternoon and Kirsi, the new outreach coordinator at the school.

The view from Flora’s house toward Lushoto

On Thursday, Flora sent a pikipiki (motorcycle) for me to go from the farm to her house for lunch. I was nervous because I had never ridden on a motorcycle and these dirt paths with ruts from the recent rains and the mountains with their ups and downs are like an Indiana Jones ride. Yes Mom, I wore a helmet. It was fun in the end and I didn’t feel like I was going to fall off, but I will not be adopting this as my method of travel in the future. Below are pictures of her house and some of her neighbor’s kids and her son, Ibra. Her house is located partway down the mountain to town. The pictures are to give people who haven’t been to Tanzania, an idea of what a typical Tanzanian house looks like.

Flora’s house

Ibra

 

After lunch, we walked to her duka (shop) where she sells various staples such as flour, corn, sugar, tea, soap, steel wool, soda, cigarettes, and other telephone vouchers. Tanzanians are always so hospitable, and will feed you their last bit of food in the house and go hungry, rather than not offer you something when you visit. At Flora’s shop she wanted to give me a soda, but insisted on paying for it. I told her that she had a business to run and I was going to be a paying customer.

Duka la Flora

Then we walked to she Mama Mashaka’s (her sister) shop on the way to see her nieces and nephews. They are all part of the Shedafa family and I have meet many family members over the years.  At Mama Mashaka’s shop, she offered me a soda and maandazi (Tanzanian donuts). I had my soda bottle still, so I just graciously accepted the delicious donuts.

After walking another 30 minutes, we arrived at the Shedafa house where I met more Shedafas I didn’t know and they started cooking me dinner. Unfortunately, I already had plans to eat dinner with Robert (the former Rainbow School principal and friend) so I only took tea. They were very disappointed I didn’t stay for dinner and I was rather embarrassed that they were making me dinner.

We then walked to town to meet Robert and he and I went up to Irente by foot to his house. I was glad to get to walk at least 6 miles that day to make up for all the food I was being served. It was all wonderful, but I was full by the end of the day. Robert’s wife had cooked a lovely meal for me as well.  It was nice to see his wife and daughter and meet his new son.

On Friday, I went to the Blind School for the celebration I talked about in yesterday’s blog and had dinner with Kirsi, Petros, and Yassin.

On Saturday morning, Anette and Peter were going to Moshi so I was able to get a ride with them and that was very kind. I was glad not to have to ride the bus again.

I ate my way through Lushoto last week with the wonderful generosity of all my friends. I could have gone to the houses of several Rainbow School parents who I saw as well, but my time was just too short.

A really great visit!

My home in Lushoto and the Irente Blind School Celebration

Today is the last day of June. I can hardly believe how quickly this month has gone. In just 11 days I board the plane to go home. While I miss my husband and my kitty, fast internet, the subway, and Crumbs cupcakes, I am truly going to miss my friends and experiences I have had in Tanzania. There have been some days and experiences that have tested me in personal and professional ways, but I still love Tanzania and I think of it as a second home. I do not believe that I will live here for a long period of time, but Tanzania will always be a part of my life.

In Lushoto this week, I felt especially at home and felt more like a mwenyeji (resident) than an mzungu (white person, sometimes synonymous with an outsider).  I saw several parents of children at the Rainbow School and they welcomed me into their home, were sad I was only there a few days and wanted to know when I was coming back. I didn’t feel like the other when I was there, but like I belonged, which I know was also related to my ability to speak Swahili.

I saw many wonderful friends and made a few new friends, like Kirsi and Petros, the new outreach coordinator at Rainbow and her husband who will be teaching music at the Rainbow School and the Irente Children’s Home.

A student showing his ability to weave sisal mats for various products.

Blind School student demonstrating their efficiency at grinding corn.

On my last day there, the Irente Blind School celebrated 50 years of existence. They have been educating blind and low vision students since right after independence. Mama Ruben is their fearless leader and a very wise woman. I hope she gets an opportunity to enjoy retirement soon as she has earned it. Here are some musical selections from the celebration. First is a video with two different clips. In Tanzania, celebrations are large, elaborate, and long.

Irente Blind School Video

The event was set to start at 10am, but officially started at about 11:15am. I left at 2:30pm to go to town for a meeting I had arranged the day before. After a report on the state of the school, a reciting of the history, several musical interludes, and a wonderful speech from a professor who was also blind and a speech about giving children with disabilities opportunities in the community by the Bishop of the diocese (the keynote speaker), they were auctioning off various products made at the school by the students to raise money to build a new hostel that would generate income for the Blind School. After that, they planned to have a few more speeches and some music and then lunch was provided for everyone in attendance. Lunch on the schedule was at 2pm. I went to town and then walked back up and got the Blind School at 4:45pm and people were just finishing lunch and the important guests were starting to leave. I finally left with one of the Rainbow teachers to visit her home at 5:30pm.

Verse Rap

Above is an audio recording of a song sung by a group of children at the blind school. It is a creative improvisational rap. It reminds me very much of the song by K’naan “Until the Lion Learns to Speak” where they are teaching us a message using a cultural form of musical expression. Enjoy.

Disability, cows, and a Lushoto teaser

Well, I have so much to say and I don’t know where to start. I was planning to write a blog entry about our trip to visit a family where we are concerned about the child and then talk about my run. But, that all happened on Monday before I went to Lushoto, and it is already the end of this week. So, I will write about it briefly.

On Monday, we went first to visit the family. They were very gracious, but their living conditions were not nice and none of the adults in the household (3) had any work. The child seems to be cared for, but the family also did not necessarily see the seriousness of the situation. It was a very difficult situation, because we were trying to explain to the family the concerns we had because their child did not do well on our assessment as well as on the school tests at the end of the first semester.

The parents wanted us to take the child the doctor for treatment, but we needed to explain that the child did not have an “ugonjwa” (illness), but that the child had a disability. At the same time, we did not want to use the word “ulemavu” (disability) because of some of the connotations of the word for people in this culture. These family members wanted us to take the child to the hospital for treatment and thought if she was treated she would improve or be cured. When I was in Lushoto for my dissertation research, I frequently heard the outreach staff trying to explain the difference between a disease that can be cured or treated and symptoms relieved, versus a disability where support, adaptations, and education can improve the situation, but that disability is a lifelong challenge for the individual and the family. The disability will not be cured or eliminated through medicine, surgery, prayer, or the laying of hands. I address the existence of such beliefs in my article (Stone-MacDonald & Butera, 2012).

The big question in my head is, “Who’s place is it to say that there is a disability? Why and for what purpose?” In the US, we use labels to secure certain funding and placements in programs, schools, and classes that address the needs and improve the lives of children and adults with specific disabilities. But what is the purpose of the label in Tanzania and other countries like it? We want the family to be concerned and be willing to participate with us and support the interventions that we believe might help, but where do we draw the line?  We could take the child to the doctor to confirm the existence of the disability and let them tell the family using the ulemavu word or “ulemavu wa akili” (intellectual disabilities) but then they expect the doctor to cure the child or give the child medicine and will expect a simple fix. At the same time, what will happen to a child who needs more than some extra help in school in the large classrooms, even we teachers that care as much as the teachers we are working with? These are difficult questions.

On a lighter note, during my Monday run I had to dodge cows, big cows, not once but twice. I was on the side roads in the neighborhood and despite the lovely houses, there are still farms nearby with animals and raising traditional crops. I really was at a lost for a moment because I didn’t want to get kicked.

In the next few days, I will write a few entries about my time in Lushoto and put up some pictures, video, and some audio from a celebration.

Below is your picture teaser from Lushoto. I took lots of pictures.

 

A view from the Irente Farm Car Park

A view from the Irente Farm camping area in the Usambara Mountains.

 

 

 

“Mzungu wetu!” and other adventures

Yesterday, we spent the last day working on new teaching techniques and planning for strategies to address the needs of the individual children. In the morning, Sarah had some other work to do, but dropped me off early at the café to start working. I took advantage of their breakfast and had French toast and bacon. Note the tomato as part of the breakfast. This is reflective of the British influence on Tanzania and breakfast choice.  Of course, there is Kilimanjaro coffee.

Union breakfast of french toast and bacon

Today we went to the school to see the classroom teacher doing tuition, or extra instruction, for children during the vacation. The teachers can choose to teach students from their class and other classes during the vacation or after school during the school year. The parents do have to pay for the service. Also, it is extra help and the teachers encourage the parents of children the teachers are concerned about are to send their children, but if they don’t want to or can’t afford it the children simply don’t come.  In addition, some of the children at the school for tuition are doing very well in school, but their parents want to pay to send them for extra help to make sure they have every possibility to learn. Therefore, the students are mixed in age usually grade 1-3 together and in their abilities ranging for children still learning to read, write, and do math to children who are excelling in their classes.

Tuition lasts from 8-11am. There is some instruction throughout the day, but in general they do a lot of exercises copied off the board. Then, the teacher collects all the notebooks and corrects them.

Checking the notebooks

After tuition, a mother of one of students that we are concerned about came to school and we had a conversation with her. We discovered that the child lives with other relatives and not the mother, so we went into the neighboring village to find the house. After a rough ride on some dirt roads, we found the house and were welcomed by the family. Unfortunately, the primary caregiver for the child was not there and we had to plan to come back next week to meet with that person. The family was so happy to see us and the young girl was there. While they had a very modest home, they welcomed us and set out stools for use to sit on to talk in the little dirt courtyard between the three structures. The girl was so happy when we entered the gate that she started shouting “Mzungu yetu! Mzungu yetu!” and gave Sarah and I each big hugs. It means “our white person! Our white person!” She was very cute.

Dialogic reading comes to Union Cafe Moshi

Today was much like yesterday. We worked on dialogic reading techniques and talked about different ways to support the literacy development of various students, particularly those students we suspect have some level of intellectual disability. Veronica developed a lesson and taught it to Sarah and I and we pretended to be some of the students that they are working with at the school.

Veronica teaching Sarah about Mama Mambo and Lina’s party

We also met with one of Sarah’s friends who has his own Kilimanjaro trek and tour company and we talked about climbing the mountain, costs, best route, safety, and other fun things. We planned a day hike to the first base camp and back for the beginning of July. This will be fun to see some of the mountain and get some exercise. I am really excited.

Here is his website and I will be happy to talk to him about climbing for you if anyone is interested.

http://www.just-kilimanjaro.com/index.htm

Teaching and learning together…Newsflash: I am short.

This week has been very fun so far sitting in the café and working with Sarah and Veronica on teaching them more about disability, behavior management, and intervention strategies for teaching children with disabilities in the classroom. When school starts again in July, Veronica is going to start working with various children from who we believe need extra help in a resource room model using various techniques and materials/manipulatives we have discussed. Today, we talked about functional behavior assessment and various intervention techniques such as chaining, task analysis, prompting, use of authentic activities, shaping and using models. We are focusing on strategies to support reading, writing, and math instruction first. We did also discuss the importance of adaptive skills and vocational skills, but most of the children we are working with have learning disabilities, so their adaptive skills are good, but need support with academics.  After some instruction yesterday, Veronica used a picture book as the basis to create a lesson and I was very impressed. She did a great job. We brainstormed some other days to add to her ideas and general ideas for improving the classroom for all children. We will talk to the classroom teacher about this sometime soon, maybe Friday.

As several of you know, I don’t drive in the Boston area because it scares me. I won’t drive in Tanzania also because it scares me more and they drive on the other side of the road, I can’t get used to that. It takes me weeks each time I come to remember to get in the passenger side on the left. But, I still need to do something to be useful since Sarah is doing all the driving. So my job is to lock and unlock the house. We have a very secure door with a key lock and two padlocks, one at the top and one at the bottom. But, because I am so short, I had to buy a stool so I could reach the top padlock. So today’s picture for your enjoyment is me unlocking the door. Yes, we can all laugh at me, I think it is cute. Sarah pointed out that I am on my tippy toes as well.

This is me stretching to unlock the door.

Questions in my mind and another relaxing weekend (lots of pics)

The blog is number 1. My colleague at UMass Boston informed me that my blog is currently the number 1 UMB Blog for June. Please keep reading and learning about the project and my trip.

This week we went to several meetings with pediatricians and a clinical psychologist. One of the interesting things that was discussed at the meetings was the question, “Why do we need to know the cause or exact severity of the disability?” In the US, we want to know the cause of the disability and we want to test and use CAT Scans and MRIs to look at neurological damage and we want to know what caused it and why. I think wanting to know is important in many cultures, but then after we know that a child will have an intellectual disability, what do we gain from knowing why they have it? Using medical and psychological tests coupled with adaptive behavior scales and ruling out other causes, we can somewhat definitely determine that a child has an intellectual disability. But then that information is used to label the child and develop the IEP.  In Tanzania, it is expensive and not realistic to do CAT scans or MRIs for these reasons and we have already determined that the children we are talking about are significantly behind their peers in the classroom and that the educational system they are experiencing is not working for them. Does knowing or communicating a specific cause and term help these kids? It doesn’t provide them access to a special classroom when that classroom doesn’t exist in their school. It doesn’t change their situation. Instead, it seems just trying to find ways to support them with extra tutoring, books to look at if applicable during the lesson, or making sure that they develop their adaptive and vocational skills as well seems to be a better solution. This is a question that I grapple with and will continue to think about. How do we help and labeling does not seem to be the answer.

This weekend we enjoyed a little break and went to Melinda’s Echtwel Tea Garden and some really yummy food. Plus, it is on the road to Machame and Kilimanjaro National Park, one of the park gates and starting points for a hike up the mountain.

 

Mt. Kilimanjaro from Machame

I had some super yummy food with Sarah and Shay (an American I have met here) and such great fresh fruits and veggies. Check out my desert and the cucumber water.

 

Chocolate brownie with raspberry sauce..YUMMY!

I had a beet and goat cheese quiche and salad for lunch.

 

Cucumber Water and Coconut Almond Loose Leaf Tea

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the mountain on the way home. Click on the video to see it as we drive down the road. The sunflower field in the background is just lovely.

A short movie of Kili from the car

Working in Mzungu Heaven

For non-Swahili speakers, Mzungu is the term for white person. Sarah and I have been working at this cafe that this week we have nicknamed Mzungu heaven because during the day the clientele is almost exclusively white. Yesterday there were two busloads of volunteers enjoying coffees and milkshakes. Supposedly they make a wonderful espresso milkshake. I love the chicken shwarma plate salad and the cafe americano. The wood fired pizzas are great too. Keith and my father would say I am not suffering enough.

There is not much new to report today. But, we have had a very successful few days of work this week. Today we had a difficult meeting and Sarah was fabulous!! She was kind and sweet and encouraged the participation of all present. We have been camped out at the Kilimanjaro Union Café.

http://www.kncutanzania.com/union.htm

It is a café owned and run by the Kilimanjaro Native Cooperative Union and they serve coffee, espresso, lattes etc. and yummy food. They brought in a master barista to design this and it is a great café. They have wifi, but we use our USB modems because it is cheaper overall and faster internet. Here we are working. No, we cannot see the mountain from the cafe. But, I can bring back wonderful coffee beans for you if you email me.

Sarah and I working at Kilimanjaro Union Cafe

A visit to the Jaffrey Academy

June 11, 2013

On Thursday last week, we went to the Jaffrey Academy in Arusha to see a private school that is preK through form 4 (on the British system, form 1-4 is the four years of high school). Originally, it was a Shia Muslim school, but now this school serves any child that wants to come and the family can pay the tuition, but many at the school are either Tanzanians of Indian descent or Tanzanians who are descended from Middle Eastern immigrants (often Omanis) a long time ago. When we were sitting in one of the second grade classes at the beginning of the day I was trying to figure out what was different and then I realized that all the children, including the girls had hair, long hair frequently. In the village schools for hygiene reasons, all children (including girls) keep their head shaved until they are old enough to properly care for their hair and keep it braided and clean.

At this school, there is a dynamic teacher and head of the special needs unit who has been working tirelessly for years to build the unit and to fight for the inclusion of her students in the general education classroom. She has been very successful in included several students, but also working in her unit with evidence based practices such as picture communication symbols and pivotal response training.

She has been working with her students on various vocational and life skills such as gardening and bead making. Here are some of the fabulous bead works and a need bag that her students made. She gave some of this to me as a gift and some I purchased because I liked it so much.

Sally will be selling similar jewelry at the IASE conference in July in Vancouver.  Sally is also the International Teacher of the Year for CEC. She is really AWESOME!